A Coast Running Out of Water

Field Companion

Take the book with you

A five-stop reading of the gradient, a sample of the species checklist, and a taste of the glossary — extracted from the book's back matter, for the drive, the walk, or the lookout.

How to use this page

A field skill,
not a chair skill

Everything in this book has been building toward one ordinary act: standing somewhere on this coast and reading it for yourself.

The book's closing chapter, "Reading the Country Yourself," folds the whole argument into a portable method. This page borrows three things from the manuscript's back matter to help with that: a condensed version of the book's five-stop reading of the gradient, a sample of its species checklist, and a sample of its glossary. Each is an extract — the full versions are longer, and live in the book itself.

A book about a place is only a set of instructions; the place itself is waiting outside, and it is far better company.

The five-minute reading

Gulf to summit, in five stops

The book's closing chapter folds itself into one routine, run in the order the land was built — from the sea, up over the ranges, and down the dry side behind. It's the same afternoon's drive the book opens with, some forty-odd kilometres from the mangroves to a summit a little over 710 metres up. Stand at each change of country and ask what you're looking at.

Annotated west-to-east cross-section of the Adelaide region running from Gulf St Vincent up to the Mount Lofty summit and down into the rain-shadow mallee, with habitat bands, and rainfall, temperature and soil reference strips along the slope.
Figure 9 · The anchor The same slope the five stops below walk — gulf, plains, range front, wet hills and rain-shadow mallee, sliced open in one cross-section.

At the sea's edge

The samphire coast

Dead-flat, grey-green ground the tide floods twice a day. Grey mangroves give way landward to samphire — the low, jointed glassworts that flush red as summer ends — with saltmarsh and mudflat behind, and a gulf that grows saltier the further out you sail.

On the plains

The vanished grassland

Now suburb, orchard, road and rail, this ground was once open grassy woodland. Read it by what's missing — spear-grass and wallaby-grass under scattered gums — and by its survivors: a lone paddock gum, an old cemetery, a fenced-off rail corridor.

At the foot of the hills

The fault in the skyline

The eastern skyline doesn't slope up to the ranges; it rises in a wall, and that wall is the Eden-Burnside Fault — an escarpment roughly 200 metres high, where ancient basement rock is still being thrust up over the young sediment of the plains.

Up in the wet hills

Stringybark country

Climb the scarp and the country turns cool and damp — the hills catch roughly twice the plains' rain. Tall, fibrous-barked forest takes over, a mesic refugium holding koalas, bandicoots and honeyeaters, increasingly marked by drought dieback.

Over the back

The mallee behind

Cross the summit into the ranges' rain shadow and the eucalypts change shape, growing low and many-stemmed from a woody underground lignotuber. Look for spinifex between the stems, and, if you're lucky, a malleefowl tending its mound.

From the back matter

The named cast, gulf to mallee

The book's full species checklist gathers every plant, animal, fungus and fossil it names, grouped by taxon and by where you meet them on the gradient — including groups not shown here, such as fungi and mycorrhizal partners, and introduced species. This is a sample of it, common name first, with the scientific name where the book gives one.

Trees of the plains and hills

River Red GumEucalyptus camaldulensis — along the watercourses.

SA Blue GumEucalyptus leucoxylon — grassy woodland of the plains.

Pink GumEucalyptus fasciculosa — Mount Lofty sclerophyll forest.

Messmate StringybarkEucalyptus obliqua — Mount Lofty forest.

Mallee eucalypts

Red malleeEucalyptus socialis

White malleeEucalyptus dumosa

YorrellEucalyptus gracilis

Ridge-fruited malleeEucalyptus incrassata — the rain-shadow country behind the ranges.

Coast and samphire flats

Grey mangroveAvicennia marina — the only mangrove in South Australia.

Shrubby SamphireTecticornia arbuscula

Samphire / glasswortsTecticornia spp. — the saltmarsh landward of the mangroves.

PosidoniaPosidonia spp. — the dominant meadow-forming seagrass of the gulf.

Birds of the coast and ranges

Slender-billed (Samphire) ThornbillAcanthiza iredalei rosinae — endemic to SA samphire saltmarsh.

Mount Lofty / Fleurieu Southern Emu-wrenStipiturus malachurus intermedius

Yellow-tailed Black-CockatooZanda funerea

MistletoebirdDicaeum hirundinaceum — disperser of mistletoe seed.

Mammals

Southern brown bandicoot (eastern)Isoodon obesulus obesulus — the only surviving bandicoot of the Mount Lofty Ranges.

Greater bilbyMacrotis lagotis — once common around Adelaide, now gone from settled southern SA.

Koala — introduced to Kangaroo Island and translocated to the Mount Lofty Ranges.

Deep-time fossils (Ediacaran biota)

Dickinsonia

Spriggina — bilateral, ~5–6 cm.

Tribrachidium — tri-radial disc, ~5 cm.

Kimberella — mollusc-like.

Nothing has been added here that the book doesn't itself name — this is a sample of a longer list. Source: manuscript/back-matter/species-checklist.md.

From the back matter

A dozen terms worth knowing

Plain, one-line definitions of technical terms the book uses, arranged alphabetically in the manuscript. Where a term has a looser everyday sense, the definition here is the one the book means. This is a sample of a longer, A-to-Z glossary.

Aeolian

Carried or laid down by wind; the plains' calcrete dust and the mallee's dunes are both aeolian.

Calcrete (kunkar)

Sheets of hard secondary carbonate cemented into the soil, built largely from wind-blown carbonate dust in the Ice-Age dry spells — not marine limestone.

Diamictite (tillite)

Lithified glacial debris — unsorted rock in a fine matrix — the rock record of the Snowball Earth glaciations.

Dodge tide

The day or more, around neap tides, when Gulf St Vincent's twice-daily tide almost vanishes as two tidal rhythms cancel; Matthew Flinders called it "the dodger."

Ectomycorrhiza (ECM)

A fungus that sheathes a tree's fine roots and trades soil nutrients for sugar; the dominant root partnership of adult eucalypts.

Elaiosome

The fatty appendage on a seed that bribes an ant to carry it home, eat the appendage and leave the seed intact to grow.

Epicormic

Of the buds sunk deep beneath the bark that let a burnt eucalypt resprout leaves along its trunk and branches.

Inverse estuary

An estuary that runs the wrong way: evaporation outpaces river inflow, so the water gets saltier from mouth to head. Gulf St Vincent is one.

Lignotuber

A woody swelling at or just below ground level, packed with dormant buds, from which a burnt eucalypt (especially a mallee) can resprout.

Mesic refugium

A moist pocket that stays wet enough to shelter species from the drying country around it; the Mount Lofty forests are one.

Sclerophyll

Hard, leathery, evergreen leaves, and the vegetation built from them; an adaptation to drought and poor soils as much as to fire.

Shifting baseline syndrome

The trap by which each generation takes the depleted nature it inherited as "normal," so long-run loss goes unnoticed.

Source: manuscript/back-matter/glossary.md.

An extract, not the whole companion. The species checklist, glossary and "Reading the Country Yourself" chapter this page draws on are first-draft back matter, still being checked against the book's facts register. Field conditions — access, tides, weather, park rules — change constantly; treat what you find on the ground as the last word over anything printed here.

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